DOLOMITES RELOADED
In 2024, we visited the Dolomites for the first time. In 2025, we returned, almost exactly one year after our first trip. We drove the several hundred kilometres in brilliant sunshine. The travel time was a bit longer than we planned because, due to livestock disease, there were delays at several of the larger border crossings, so we chose a smaller one. At Pornóapáti, there wasn't anyone else, and we proceeded steadily towards the town of Sillian. But as we approached, grey clouds greeted us and a period of rainy days began.
The small, picturesque village is located near the city of Lienz, in Tyrol, very close to the Italian border. Green pastures and snow-capped mountains surround the houses. Our first day passed uneventfully, except for the short walks with our dog Fagyi, because it rained all day.
The next day promised to be more fortunate, as we set off towards Lago di Braies or Pragser Wildsee in the sunshine.
The lake is located at an altitude of 1496m, in the northern part of the Dolomites, about a 30-minute drive from Sillian. Easily accessible by car, there are several parking lots for those arriving by car, some just a few hundred meters from the lake. We arrived before 10 o'clock and there were hardly any people, so we easily found a free spot.
According to legend, wild men once lived in the mountains, where countless amounts of gold were found. As time passed, shepherds arrived in the valley, who were made greedy by the gold, and they began to steal the wild men's jewellery and treasures. Fed up with this, the mountain inhabitants caused a spring to flow forth, which formed the Wildsee. The lake blocked the shepherds' path, putting an end to the eternal conflict.
Allegedly, the depths of the lake hide countless treasures, but only those with a pure heart can notice them.
In fact, Lago di Braies was formed by a landslide and its depth varies between 17-36 meters. In summer, it is possible to swim in it, but since the water is cold - average temperature 14°C - very few people dare to do this. Alternative leisure activities are boating and hiking.
The simplest and most easily accessible hiking trail for families and dog owners is the path that circles the lake. It is worth noting that due to avalanche risk, a part of the trail is closed for a considerable time, making it impossible to complete the entire loop around the lake.
We went anticlockwise, from the Pragser Wildsee hotel towards the chapel.
The private chapel built in 1904, the Cappella Lago di Braies, played a significant role during World War II. As one of the last events of the war, 137 political prisoners were brought here from concentration camps in Germany, because the SS commander hoped to exchange them for his own safety. The prisoners sought solace in this chapel after their release. The graceful building is a combination of Romanesque and Gothic styles.
Just like in the parking lot, there weren't many people on the walkway either. We quickly left the path and walked among the stones by the water. Winter was still not over, the surface of the lake was covered with ice.
The well-maintained, flat section winding through the pine forest leads into a spacious, open area where a small pebbly, flat shoreline replaces the rocky, steep cliff. Here, like at the Danube shore, a multitude of stone sculptures and breathtaking panoramas greet the hiker. In front of us was the almost unreal turquoise/green water, and behind us towered the peaks of Seekofel.
The rest of the hike almost ended in failure because the trail was closed. With a bit of climbing to bypass the pallets blocking the path, we returned to the trail. There wasn't much snow around, and the avalanche didn't pose a real threat, but in some places, the melting water trickling between the rocks had washed out the steps. This section was a bit more intense, but afterwards we returned to the lakeshore and continued on flat terrain.
We finished the 3.6 km circular tour at the boathouse. Depending on the pace, it can be completed in 1-1.5 hours, including stops. Benches have been placed in several spots, and we can also rest on the rocks by the shore (although this requires deviating from the designated path). We ended the day at Emma's Bistro. The weather was kind to us. The sun shone throughout, with a brief shower to spice things up. On the way home (to the accommodation), the sky once again clouded over and it started to rain.
The next day, we searched for a route in the Alltrails app and chose Prato Piazza / Plätzwiese.
The plateau, located about 45 minutes from Sillian, is situated among the peaks of the Prags Dolomites. The area belongs to the Fanes-Sennes-Prags Nature Park, which is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its location and unique ecosystem. In the 1880s, a part of the Alpine fortification line was also built along this section.
By car, you can go up to the parking lots near the Rifugio Prato Piazza / Berggasthof Plätzwiese until 10:00 AM (April data). The upper parking lots are not very large, accommodating about 100 cars. To avoid traffic jams, a 6 km section of the serpentine road is controlled by traffic lights, and after 10:00 AM, only minibuses from the lower parking lot are allowed to operate. Driving in costs 10 EUR and only cash is accepted. We arrived at the lower parking lot at 9:45, and we didn't have any cash with us. Just like yesterday at Lago di Braies, there was no crowd here either. In general, we should have gone back to the last village to withdraw cash, but the parking attendant exceptionally overlooked this, and we managed to go up to the upper parking lot for free. The road somewhat resembled the serpentine route leading to Berchtesgaden: a narrow road at times along the edge of a cliff, with a wonderful panorama.
From the parking lot, the Berggasthof Plätzwiese and the Hotel Gaisl are the first landmarks. Since everything was covered in snow, we continued along the flat, gravel road all the way to the Dürrenstein Hütte at an altitude of 2040 meters. Spring was just beginning to spread its wings at this altitude. In some parts of the plateau, the snow had already melted, but instead of the vibrant green, the landscape had taken on a rusty brown colour, mixed with the purple patches of alpine heather. The sky and the sun were covered by clouds, and the snow-capped peaks only occasionally emerged from the greyness.
The flat section ends at the Dürrenstein Hütte, which is located at an altitude of 2040 meters. Here, you can take a break for a coffee, but warm meals and accommodation are also available for guests.
The easy hike ended here. From the hut, there were two directions to continue: towards the Dürrenstein peak at 2800m high or to the Strudelkopf / Monte Specie peak at 2307m high. We chose the latter. In theory, it should take 50 minutes to reach the top, but it turned into 1.5 hours. At the beginning, we were still cheerful because, although there were some inclines and swampy, wet sections, the footpath was easily passable. Snowy, slippery, but the snow wasn't deep.
The more difficult section began near the Plätzwiese fortress. The snow here was already up to our hips. This became apparent when, while walking on the narrow, trodden path, half of our leg unexpectedly disappeared into the snow up to the waist. Our dog Fagyi was also surprised when he left the path. The snow still solidly held its ground, but due to the melting, its consistency became looser, and the upper, compacted layer sometimes gave way under our weight. We were moving quite slowly. Fortunately, everyone was only going up (a maximum of 10-12 people), so we didn't have to dodge each other.
The Plätzwiese fortress was also part of the Alpine defence line, which became outdated over the years and was therefore evacuated. In the war of 1915, the Italian heavy artillery bombarded it to ruins. The damaged parts were partially restored, and since then it has stood alone proudly among the snow-capped peaks.
From the fortress, after conquering the last ascent, we reached the cross (Heimkehrerkreuz) placed at the top of Strudelkopf. The cross was erected in 1982 by front-line soldiers from Pustaler, in memory of their comrades who died in World War I and II.
Next to the cross, there is also a "map" that shows the surrounding mountains (Sextner, Sesto, Cadini, Marmarole, D'Ampezzo, Prragser, Braies).
We moved much faster downhill, although the slippery snow didn't make things any easier. We were happy when we finally had "solid" ground under our feet. I made a video of the road, you can watch it here: Monte Specie road
We spent the afternoon at the accommodation, and it started to rain. So we decided to head home a day early. At the command, the sun came out, and just like on the way here, we travelled home in sunshine the whole way.
April, 2025
