After moving to China, in the 40°C July heat, the Lingyin Temple was the first attraction we visited in the city. It was here that we first encountered another side of this noisy, bustling society that seems to live for appearances. Since then, I’ve returned several times, in different seasons, and I’m still captivated by its atmosphere. Perhaps I should have started this blog here, but somehow I kept putting off the task. Looking back nearly two years later, I don’t regret it. We’ve traveled far and wide, explored many cities in China, and visited countless temples and pagodas… and Lingyin is still among my favorites!

With a history dating back more than a thousand years, this temple is not only the oldest religious center in the city of Hangzhou, but also one of the ten most significant temples of Chinese Zen Buddhism. Its founding is attributed to an Indian monk. According to legend, Huili, as the monk was called, was walking in the area, and as he made his way up through the dense forest, he discovered a stream, rocks, and creeping vines. Each of these reminded him of India. He believed he had found the summit of one of the mountains in India right there. Many doubted him, but Huili was certain of his discovery. Two monkeys also lived on the mountain in India, one black and one white. He reasoned that the true proof would be if he could find the monkeys in Lingyin Valley as well. He found them in a cave, and when he called out to them, the animals came out. The legend and reality converge in several points: Huili was a real person, and for many decades, the monkeys were indeed residents of the temple.

In the early days of Lingyin’s history, only a few monks lived within its walls. The spread of Buddhism can be dated to a later period, during the Southern and Northern Dynasties, when the emperor and the upper classes turned to Buddhism instead of Taoism. After several ups and downs, the temple suffered its greatest setback during the Tang Dynasty. Emperor Wu banned Buddhism; the temple’s condition declined, and the monks left. A rise in fortunes occurred during the Wuyue Kingdom, when the building was expanded and 23 monks were already taking care of religious life. Over the years, Lingyin’s reputation spread far and wide, attracting pilgrims from across the country. Their donations, combined with grants from the emperors, supported the growth of Buddhism and the temple’s operations. This steady progress was set back by several fires. Thanks to the monks Huotang and Jude—and, of course, generous donations—the temple regained its former glory in 1649, and the rebuilt complex was opened with a grand ceremony. By the time of the Qianlong Emperor, more than 500 monks were already living here. 

In 1860, another disaster hit, as the Taiping Rebellion did not even spare Hangzhou. Most of the temples were destroyed, including a significant part of Lingyin. Its valuable treasures and collections either fell into private hands or disappeared. Reconstruction took several decades, lasting until 1937. Then came the Japanese invasion, and the Red Cross set up a shelter in the temple. The chaos led to disaster, and the temple was destroyed by yet another fire. The following decades were marked by reconstruction, the Cultural Revolution, restoration, and the temple’s transition to self-sufficiency. Today, the center is prosperous once again and continues to be regarded as one of the pillars of Buddhism in China.

What should you know before visiting?
As I mentioned, Lingyin is located in a valley, and the surrounding area itself is a so-called “priority tourist zone.” Therefore, if you want to see the temple, you’ll have to pay twice. The ticket you receive at the ticket office only grants access to the “park” area. There are additional ticket counters and ticket machines next to the temple, where you can purchase admission to the temple itself. It’s the standard Chinese system: children under 1.20 meters pay the child rate; anyone taller is considered an adult.

What can we see around the temple?
We can explore thesurroundings of the temple. As soon as we step into the park, we come across caves. The Longhong Cave covers 253 square meters, the Yuru Cave 270 square meters, and more than 90 statues of Buddha are carved into the rock walls.