CORSICA
Our first island-hopping holiday was in Corsica. We didn’t plan a typical beach holiday, as our two-week trip took in the cities of Verona, Florence, Pisa and Livorno, followed by a break in Corsica, and then San Marino and Rimini to round it off.
One of the largest islands in the Mediterranean has a turbulent history. After several occupations and changes of rule, it finally became part of France. Most people associate its name with Napoleon, as the island’s most famous native was Bonaparte, Napoleon.
We arrived in Corsica by ferry on the Livorno–Bastia route, after a four-hour swaying journey. Time flew by on the ferry.
Our accommodation was in Santa Lucia-de Moriani, and that’s where our adventure on the island began.
Corsica is a truly lush paradise, with a significant part of it designated as a nature reserve. One stunning stretch of coastline follows another, each with its own distinctive character. That said, the most beautiful spots aren’t accessible from the coast – we’d already learnt this lesson in Sardinia. As we’re not fans of passive holidays and the sandy beach at Santa Lucia only kept the boys entertained for a while, we combined our days by the water with cultural excursions.
Our first trip took us to the town of Bonifacio. The southernmost town on the island is built on a huge limestone cliff and gazes solemnly out towards the coast of Sardinia. Its unique location and beauty have earned it a place on the World Heritage List.
The town was founded in 828 by Count Bonifacio. From the very beginning, it played a strategically important role in the life of Corsica, and its architecture developed accordingly. The count had a citadel built, after which the Genoese established a garrison in the town. In 1420, its walls were attacked for five months and its inhabitants were starved, but the town held out. To ensure effective defence, the houses in the lower streets had no doors; the apartments could only be accessed via ladders. During the five-month siege, the King of Aragon even had his soldiers carve a flight of steps during the night, but even this failed to break Bonifacio’s defences. The storms of history did not completely destroy the town. The Citadella’s ramparts, the 35-metre-high tower of the citadel dating from 1195, and the steps carved into the rock can still be seen today.
On the Bosco plateau, not far from St Francis’s Church, lies Campu Santu, Bonifacio’s cemetery. I know it’s a silly comparison, but at first glance, it reminded me of the Greek village in Balatonfüred when I saw it. Although it blends gently into its surroundings, I somehow felt it didn’t quite belong there. Walking amongst the crypts, you expect the doors to open and their occupants to appear.
The best part of the walk is the panoramic view of the sea. The varied rock formations, the azure sea and the harbour with its tiny-looking boats offered something new to discover at every turn.
You should definitely head inside the Old Town walls and take a stroll through the charming, narrow alleyways. Whilst we were admiring the buildings, the kids focused on something else.
We spent the following day at Santa Giulia, one of the best beaches in the world. On the whole, most of the beaches we saw were less developed and, as a result, littered and neglected. (We’re not really keen on ‘classic’ beaches, so we usually look for ones that are a bit more rugged.) But Santa Giulia was an exception. Here, everyone found their own ‘toy’. Shallow water, a sandy shore, cliff-jumping, restaurants, cafés, sunbathers, superb facilities.. We loved every minute of it!
Corsica had been under Genoese control since 1284.. In the 15th century, the Ottoman Empire extended its control westwards across the Mediterranean and became a dominant power. In the 16th century, too, the coast of Corsica was subjected to several Turkish attacks. The local population were taken captive and sold into slavery. In response, the Republic of Genoa built 100 watchtowers, each topped with a terrace that also served a defensive purpose. On our way back from the beach, we also visited the Torra di Fautea. It can be reached from the coastal road via a narrow footpath winding through the bushes. It’s well worth making this little detour, because although you can’t climb to the top of the watchtower, you’ll still be treated to a magnificent view.
The former capital of Corsica under the leadership of Pasquale Paoli, was Corte. The town itself is small, and the Citadel, built on a rocky promontory, stands out prominently even from a distance. It can be reached via a steep street.
Napoleon and Jean-Toussaint Arrighi de Casanova, a diplomat and a soldier, were both born in Corté. The little town has a charming atmosphere, with houses that are not in the best condition, but excellent cafés and restaurants. We really liked the town’s slightly melancholic atmosphere, and the way it nestles like a tiny spot at the meeting point of the surrounding mountains and the rivers: Restonica, Orta and Tavignana.
We spent a few days in Corsica and only had time to take in a few cultural sights alongside our time on the beach. The island’s natural beauty is breathtaking; it is a paradise not only for beachgoers but also for hikers. There are still countless places waiting to be discovered, and we look forward to returning.
Our trip was like the flag of Corsica. The flag was adopted by General Pasquale Paoli in 1755 and was based on an older design. It depicts a black Moorish head wearing a white headscarf over his eyes on a white background. Previously, the headscarf had covered his eyes, but Paoli wanted it to be placed above the eyes, thereby symbolising the liberation of the Corsicans from Genoese rule. We, too, arrived with our eyes blindfolded, and the few days we spent here opened our eyes and highlighted just how diverse and underrated Corsica is.
August, 2014
