A TRIP TO LAKE BLED
This trip wasn’t our first time visiting Slovenia and experiencing the country’s natural wonders. Postojna and the Plitvice Lakes also left us in awe, but Bled and its surroundings, the Upper Carniola region had somehow slipped under our attention until now. We first visited here in 2014, and that trip has been so far our most memorable and beautiful one.
We stayed in the village of Selo pri Bledu. We lived in a simple but comfortable apartment building that met all our needs, and it served as the starting point for our daily hikes.
Our first activity was a tour of the Vintgar Gorge, about 5 km from Bled. In February 2014, a harsh winter struck Bled, causing long-term damage to the natural environment. Visiting the Vintgar Gorge was not recommended (a small sign at the entrance warned us, and there was no one at the ticket office), because the walkways were damaged and the trails had become impassable in many places due to fallen trees and broken branches. We hesitated for a while with a few fellow tourists, but our Hungarian spirit overcame us, and, following the others, we set off into the gorge. We saw Vintgar in a way that few others have. This wildness, this momentary sense of untouched nature (and the lack of tourists) that made for such a wonderful experience—one that has kept Bled as one of our favorite places ever since.
The gorge was unknown to tourists until 1890. It was then that, through a massive effort, the wooden-plank paths and bridges were built, making the 1,600-meter-long and 250-meter-deep gorge accessible to the public.
The sunlight shining through the "stone walls," the thousand shades of green and blue, the rays of sunlight painting a rainbow in the mist, and the sound of rushing water all came together to form a symphony composed by nature.
The hike takes about 1–3 hours to complete, depending on your fitness level, pace, and the time spent taking photos.
After visiting the Vintgar Gorge, we went to the Mostnica Gorge, which was carved out over the centuries by the Mostnica Stream as it winds through the Voje Valley. Its depth reaches 15 meters in some places, though its width is sometimes only 1 meter. The water is ice-cold and crystal-clear, and the gorge is a paradise of tiny, natural pools.
The boys enjoyed throwing stones along the stream, and at the end of the hike, they ran around in the huge green field and rolled down the hill.
That evening, we treated ourselves to some culinary delights in town and sampled the famous Bled cream cake. Of course, it didn’t quite measure up to Mom’s, but everyone really enjoyed it.
The next day, we started at Slovenia’s most famous waterfall, the Savica Waterfall. Climbing the many steps - 550 of them - is the price we have to pay if we want to see it. The water falls from a height of about 60–70 meters down the rock face, and interestingly, it splits into two streams. It’s important to know that you can’t get close to it; in fact, you can only view the waterfall from behind a gate. Despite the barrier, it’s recommended to wear waterproof clothing, because the water spray will get your clothes wet.
Of course, we also went up to Vogel. Rising to 1,922 meters on the edge of Triglav National Park, Vogel is a popular ski resort. It can be reached by cable car from Lake Bohinj. We were surprised to find the landscape covered in snow in early June. There wasn’t too much, but it was perfect for a little snow play.
On a clear day, you can see the peaks of the Alps and Lake Bohinj nestled in the valley.
Lake Bohinj is Slovenia’s largest natural glacial lake, reaching depths of up to 45 meters in some places. It is surrounded by mountains like bodyguards, and the rising mist creates a mystical atmosphere.
Lake Bled formed in a tectonic basin following the melting of the glaciers. According to legend, however, its creation is attributed to fairies who danced in the soft grass near Fairy Rock. Shepherds grazing their sheep drove their flocks out to this lush meadow, and the animals grazed on the grass. During the next dance, one of the fairies stumbled and broke her leg. In their anger, they dammed up the waters of the springs and streams and channeled them into the valley, where Lake Bled was formed, and the rock became the island we see today. According to another legend, a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary once stood on the site of the island’s current church. Grazing animals would often wander into the building, and their owners did nothing to stop them, despite repeated warnings. One morning, they woke up to find the church surrounded by water, forming a natural fence.
Bled Island is the jewel of the lake. You can either row out to it in a boat or take a so-called pletna. The Church of the Assumption of Mary stands on the teardrop-shaped island. Its predecessor was a wooden chapel, which was later replaced by a small church. The later Romanesque-style building was rebuilt several times, eventually taking on the Gothic features of the current church.
Visitors love to ring the freestanding bell, as legend has it that wishes made while the bell is ringing come true. The legend of the bell goes like this: A widow lived in Bled Castle who had a bell made in memory of her husband. The bell was being transported to the island when a violent storm broke out, and the boat sank along with its cargo. In her grief, the widow withdrew to a monastery. News of her story and her death reached the Pope, who sent a bell to the church.
Another superstition is connected to the steps leading up to the church. The groom must carry the bride up the 99 steps if they wish to be married in the little church.
The Bled Castle towers over the lake. Its history dates back to 1004, when it came into the possession of the Bishop of Brixen. At that time, it served primarily as a defensive structure. Over the years, it was rebuilt and reinforced several times, most recently in 1961. Its walls now house a museum, a wine cellar, a well, and the Rikli Memorial Room. The tower offers a superb panoramic view of the town of Bled.
Our long weekend in Bled came to a close with a tour of the castle, and we headed home with our hearts full of wonderful memories.
June, 2014
