A TRIP TO ISTRIA - KVARNER BAY
We spent one week of our summer holiday in Croatia again, in the Kvarner Bay area. Following our now-traditional itinerary, we set off from Lake Balaton and arrived in Kršan after a journey of about four hours. It rained the whole way, and not far from the village we even just managed to escape a massive hailstorm. But by the time we arrived, the sky had cleared and the sun was slowly coming out.
The forecast had predicted sunny weather throughout, and, fortunately for us, maximum temperatures of between 25 and 27˘C. As our dog, Fagyi, a Transylvanian hound, had come with us, we set about exploring the area with great enthusiasm. We usually left relatively early each day, and by the time we’d finished our daily walk, the young ones had just woken up or might even have already finished their breakfast.
Due to the closeness of the Kvarner Bay, its climate, and beaches, it is a popular travel destination among Hungarians. The tourist boom in the coastal region began in 1844 when a wealthy Rijeka merchant built a villa in Opatija, which was then just a fishing village. Among the first tourists was Dr. Conrad Clar, an Austrian doctor, noticed that the seaside climate had a positive effect on the child's health.
The news of the improvement spread all the way to the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. Franz Joseph fell so in love with Opatija that he moved his winter residence there, while his brother, Archduke Joseph, regularly rested in Crikvenica.
Učka-Poklon-Vojak: The mountain rises in the eastern part of the Istrian Peninsula. It stretches for 20 km from the Poklon Pass (920 m) to the Plomin Bay. The name "Učka" is of Croatian origin. It is said to originate from the word "Vučka," which means Wolf Mountain. The mountain range was named Caldiera by the Istrian people.
The pass between the Učka and Ćićarija mountains is called Poklon (922 m). The name (bow) originates from an old tradition: before the construction of the Istrian railway in 1876, pilgrims had been arriving at the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Trsat in Rijeka for centuries via this pass. After reaching the Poklon, from where there is a beautiful view of the Kvarner Bay, they bowed before the Trsat Sanctuary of Our Lady.
A few years after the railway was built, in the summer of 1887, members of the Austrian Tourist Club built the first mountaineering lodge here, at Poklon.
In 1911, during the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, the Vojak Tower was built at the highest point of the mountain - 1401m. During the World War, it served as a military and naval observation point, but later it regained its original function and was once again occupied by climbers and tourists. In 1999, the area was declared a National Park, and the tower became an iconic element of the park. Thanks to its 360° panorama, it is a popular hiking route. In clear weather, you can see all the way to the Alps with binoculars.
It can be approached via several routes. Poklon-Vojak is one of the most well-known. By car, we can drive along a forest road to the village of Mala Učka, and from there, we can climb up to Vojak via a steep path.
If we are even more comfortable, we can also complete the Poklon-Vojak hiking trail by car. Although there is a "no entry" sign for cars at Poklon, it is possible to drive all the way to the top. The route is spectacular by car, and the scenery is particularly stunning on foot.
Pijana Pruga: Pijana Pruga is a railway line that once connected Lupoglav and Štalja, not far from the mediaeval settlement of Kožljak. The railway is approximately 50 km long and was built through the voluntary work of the residents from 1948 to 1951 for the transportation of coal between Lupoglav and Štalija. Due to the harsh conditions, it was also called the Istrian Siberian Railway. The train last ran on the track in 2009. It was not the route of the track that made it famous, but its quality. The embankment has slipped in many places, the tracks have become wavy and in several places they are hanging in the air. A fairly long section is passable, but nature is slowly taking over the once more glorious railway track.
Babina and Krnički Porat: Babina is a relatively close beach to Kršan, but since it is quite small, it is also crowded. The beach is mostly pebbly, which wasn't the family's favourite. However, the road is beautiful, and it's worth stopping at a former hotel. Climbing over its fence, a beautiful view opens up over the bay and the surrounding islands.
Krnički Porat was about an hour's drive away, but it provided a far better experience than the other beaches. A small harbour from which we can walk along the rocky shore and discover increasingly beautiful beach spots. Crystal clear water, the possibility to jump off the rocks, few people. The small beach has a toilet and shower, but if you go further, the infrastructure has not been developed. Unlike previous experiences, we encountered clean spots; there were no ice cream sticks, peach pits, or other treats stuck between the rocks. According to the map, the beach is excellent for snorkelling. Unfortunately, we only saw smaller fish and sea urchins.
We managed to spend this week meaningfully. Istria always has surprises in store, it's worth having an open mind and not just focusing on sunbathing.
August, 2023
