A LONG WEEKEND IN BELFAST
20 years. We've been married for this many years. It has become a tradition for us to travel on our anniversary. Just the two of us. Then came China, where we travelled a lot but mainly the boys and I, followed by the arrival of our dog Fagyi into the family, and finally the Covid lockdown. So, several years passed without any trips together. But we set off again. To a place I hadn't ever planned for and didn't really desire to go. In addition to celebrating the anniversary, there was an extra program that particularly didn't excite me. But as has often been proven, sometimes it's good to just watch the waves, then lean back and go with the flow.
So we travelled to Belfast for a long weekend. And why Belfast? Because there was a LUSH Classical concert here. What did I know about Belfast? What the average person my age heard in the news: The Troubles, IRA. Through music: Simple Minds, U2, The Cranberries; and through films: The Outsider, The Crying Game, The Elephant, In the Name of the Father, Bloody Sunday, The Devil's Own, and The Foreigner.
And what did I know about LUSH? That the husband listens to this in the evenings, and it's very good, and they cover music from our generation, so I will like it too.
In the equation filled with numerous unknowns, one thing was certain: we could expect rain :-)
Day 1:
We set off on a Thursday morning, and the brown agricultural fields were replaced by the angry green, rain-soaked Irish pastures. Our accommodation was available from 2 PM, so we decided to take the airport bus - Express 300 - to the city center and stroll around a bit. We bought tickets on the Translink app (there's also a machine at the airport stop), and we arrived at the Europa bus station, which is located behind the Europa Hotel, in about 40 minutes. We didn't have to deal with the luggage because, although we didn't find a luggage storage at the station, we were able to leave it in the hotel lobby. Not as an exceptional option, but it seemed to operate as atemporary storage service.
The core of the city is not very large - as we experienced in the following days - and many places can be reached on foot. During our first walk, we were mostly just getting to know Belfast. We visited the Opera House building, the City Hall, and walked to the St. George's market building.
The early departure and the increasingly intense rain started to take away our enthusiasm, so we decided to spend the rest of the afternoon at the accommodation. We found the Citi North apartment on Booking.com. In terms of price/value ratio, it proved to be an excellent choice, easily accessible by bus and on foot from the center. The area - Cliftonville Road - is lined with classic English townhouses, and the apartment building is among them. The building has been converted into several apartments, and we were given a room on the raised ground floor. The apartment was small, but immaculately clean.
We spent the rest of the evening planning the next day's itinerary and digging a bit into the history of Belfast, Ulster, and the Irish.
In 1800, the parliaments of the Kingdom of Great Britain and the Kingdom of Ireland voted for a convention that united the two kingdoms. The relationship between Catholics and Protestants was not without problems, but the country only split after World War I. As a result of the wars of independence following the World War, it was divided. In 1921, an agreement was reached with the British for the establishment of the independent Irish Republic and Northern Ireland..
While the agreement brought tranquillity to the territory of the Irish Republic, the question of belonging continued to smoulder in the Northern Irish regions. The British tried to prevent a possible Irish unification by appointing Protestant leaders who kept the Catholic minority oppressed. The resistance contributed to the establishment of the IRA and its organisations, with a common goal: to force out the British and unite the Irish. Due to the continuous guerrilla actions and street battles, the period between 1969 and 1997 is aptly referred to as "The Troubles" in Irish and British history, with one of the most significant events being Bloody Sunday in 1972. On this day, the British Army opened fire on Irish nationalist Northern Irish demonstrators in (London)Derry, resulting in the deaths of 13 civilians and injuring 15 others. It was not only the British who killed civilians: the most famous of the IRA's many guerrilla actions was the 1984 bombing of the Brighton hotel, when the British Prime Minister, Margaret Thatcher, was targeted for assassination. The fighting finally ended in 1998 after the UK, the Republic of Ireland and Northern Irish parties signed the Good Friday Agreement. The agreement allowed the Northern Irish regions to decide where they wanted to belong (they decided to belong to the United Kingdom) and there would be no border between the two Irish territories.
Brexit has heightened the tensions, because the possible establishment of a border would go against the Good Friday Agreement. (During Brexit, the Republic of Ireland remained a member of the EU, while the United Kingdom - of which Northern Ireland is a part - left the EU.) (source: azonnali.hu)
Anyone we asked about the present, which cannot forget the grievances of the past, confirmed: the conflict is not based on religion, but on the clash of ideologies. The situation is chaotic: 3 flags (Irish, British, and Ulster), dual education, a "Berlin Wall" in the city, no-go zones. And it's enough to just look at a map: the terminology of the British Isles help you to understand the complexity of the situation that has developed.
Day 2:
On Friday morning, we set out to explore the city at a leisurely pace. Our first stop was the City Hall located in the city center. Belfast was already a bustling settlement in the 17th century, and Queen Victoria granted it city status in 1888.
The town hall opened its doors on August 1, 1906, during the city's industrial golden age. Designed in the Baroque style by Alfred Brumwell Thomas, it was built from Portland stone. The building is not only impressive from the outside, but the interior spaces are also stunning.
In addition to the interior decoration and the elaboration of details, the stained glass windows made in various styles are of outstanding importance. A common element of their themes is that they show a significant event in the city's history or a person closely connected to Belfast's past.
We already got to know the Europa Hotel yesterday, but our journey took us there again. Its history is remarkable, as it is the most bombed hotel in Europe. During The Troubles, it was bombed 28 times.
On Thursday, we were already at St. George's market, but we couldn't go in because it was closed. We visited on both Friday and Saturday, and we preferred the weekend bustle to the quieter Friday. It's smaller than the Vásárcsarnok in Budapes, but it's definitely worth spending some time there. The street foods and artisanal delicacies - cookies, pastries, breads - are excellent too!
Our next stop was the Titanic Quarter. Perhaps I'm not the only one who didn't know that the Titanic was built in Belfast. Shipbuilding became a major industry in Northern Ireland, with ships built by the best craftsmen becoming famous worldwide. The redevelopment of the old port and docks, integrating them into the city's vibrancy, resulted in the creation of the Titanic Quarter. The highlight is the Titanic Museum, but in addition to entertainment centers and exhibitions, residential and office areas, as well as hotels, have also been developed.
The district is about a 20-25 minute walk from the market. I think this is the best way to approach it because walking along the banks of the River Lagan and crossing the bridges gives us a new perspective of the city. Several iconic locations, Game of Thrones stations, and informational installations make the walk vibrant and meaningful.
The Beacon of Hope statue stands on the shore at Thanksgiving Square. The statue is the result of six years of design. The female figure, made of stainless steel and cast bronze, holds the ring of thanksgiving in her hand. The globe at her feet represents the unity of peace, harmony and thanksgiving, with the names of the cities to which the people of Belfast emigrated. We managed to see it in the evening light, but the pictures available on the internet are far better than the reality.
The 10m Big Fish statue was also placed on the banks of the Lagan. Its surface is made of ceramic mosaics that portray events from Belfast's history. The giant salmon is the fish of knowledge. According to legend, Fionn - the leader of the Na Fianna warriors, the builder of the Giant's Causeway, and the protector of the Irish king - went to the wise poet Finnegas to learn everything from him. Finnegas searched for the fish of knowledge in the River Boyne for 7 years before finally catching it. The poet was hoping to gain the knowledge by eating the fish and asked Fionn to cook it. Fionn burnt his finger while cooking. In order to relieve his pain, he simply put his finger in his mouth, and thus he acquired the wisdom of omniscience instead of the poet.
The iconic pieces of the Titanic Quarter also include the Belfast buoys. They are about 80 years old, weigh 3 tonnes each, are made of thick steel plates riveted together, and their task was to assist in the navigation of ships in the Victoria Channel. The red can-shaped buoy marked the left side of the canal, the cone-shaped black one marked the right side, and the striped spherical one indicated the junction or the midpoint of the canal.
Continuing along the Maritime Mile, we reach the Hamilton Dock and the SS Nomadic ship. The Hamilton Dock and the Pump House are located in front of Titanic Belfast. It is named after Sir James Hamilton, the chairman of the Belfast Harbour Commissioners. The construction also provided work for many Catholics who had been excluded from the Belfast shipyards because of their religion. The workers wanted the dock to be built closer to their homes, but Harland & Wolff Shipbuilding Company was firm, and the dock was established at the Victoria Channel, laying the foundation for the rise of Irish shipbuilding. For more than 120 years, it was used for building, maintaining, and refurbishing ships, with the last use around 1990. The dock is home to the "Hull no. 50." "camel." Its task was to close the dock. Its construction method was the same as that of ships, and its shape perfectly matched the granite groove of the dock entrance.
The other famous ship in the dock is the SS Nomadic, also known as the mini Titanic or Titanic's little sister. Its size is exactly a quarter of the Titanic, and its main task was to transfer first and second-class passengers from the shallow shore to the Titanic anchored in deeper water. During its lifetime, many celebrities passed through its decks, such as Charlie Chaplin, Johnny Weissmuller, Marie Curie, Liz Taylor.
Tickets for the SS Nomadic can be purchased at the Belfast Titanic Museum.
The most famous member of the quarter is the Titanic Belfast Museum, which was listed among the world's leading tourist attractions in 2016. The building itself is already impressive, and the exhibition also appropriately commemorates the history of Belfast and the Titanic. Its height is the same as that of the Titanic, its square shape recalls the bow of the ship, and its surface is covered with anodised aluminium shards. In 2012, the museum was opened to the public by the Queen herself. One of the interesting features of the interactive and well-structured exhibition halls is that by getting into small vehicles, we are taken into the belly of the ship and can learn about its construction. The multi-section exhibition begins with the presentation of the city's industries, the boom in shipbuilding, the sinking of the Titanic, and the presentation of the search for wrecks.
At the end of the exhibition, we can take a photo that reminds us of the famous scene from the Titanic movie, and in the restaurant located in the building's lobby, we can choose from particularly delicious and reasonably priced menus.
Another interesting feature of the Titanic Quarter is the pair of Samson and Goliath cranes. They were manufactured by the German company Krupp and delivered to the Harland & Wolff shipyard.
Leaving the quarter, we walked again, passing by the Albert Memorial Clock Tower. The sandstone tower was built between 1865-69 on wooden piles. Since the soil is marshy, the tower has tilted over the years. During the renovation, the foundation was reinforced, but the tilt was not corrected. Thus, it is now also called the Leaning Tower of Belfast. It was built in Gothic style, with a statue of Prince Albert on top. The clock tower's bell was made by a master from Belfast and weighs 2 tonnes. The building was blown up in 1992, and its restoration was completed in 2002.
We walked around the city a bit more, then took the bus back to our accommodation.
Day 3:
We had a concert in the evening, so we planned a rather laid-back Saturday. The Botanical Garden and St. Anne's Cathedral were our two primary activities. The cathedral nearest to our lodging was our first destination, and we didn't leave too early. Unfortunately, many others shared our desire to enjoy breakfast close by. The line stretched out onto the street at the well-known locations.
The church is located on Donegall Street. On the site of the current building, a smaller parish church stood, which was gifted to the city by Lord Donegall. It was named St Anne's after the mother of the Virgin Mary. Donegall's wife was also called Anne. From the old church, only the Good Samaritan window remains. The construction lasted almost 8 years, with the various elements of the building being completed in several phases. Interestingly, the structure was built on piles, so instead of classic heavy towers, a lighter architectural solution was chosen - the tower named Spire of Hope.
The interior spaces are impressive, decorated with mosaics and frescoes. Here, too, they commemorate the victims of the Titanic. A merino wool textile was covered with blue-painted Irish linen. The indigo blue colour signifies the dark sky. The embroidered cross in the centre is made up of many small crosses, referring to the victims. The artwork was created by textile artists from the University of Ulster.
St. Anne cannot be visited without paying the entrance fee!
We strolled through the city center and took the bus to the Botanical Garden after seeing the cathedral. The garden is situated on Queen's University property. The garden includes a variety of herbaceous and woody plants in addition to a huge rose garden. Many advancements were made by Charles McKimm, who assumed professional administration in 1874.
The Palm House was designed by Charles Lanyon and is a cast-iron, arched structure. There is a tropical section with a real lush, dense, humid jungle, there are plants in the cool wing, and a section dedicated to cactus.
We walked back to the city center from the Botanical Garden. The distance isn't short, but it was enjoyable to see that the streets around the university have such a different atmosphere.
After a short break, we returned to the Titanic Quarter in the evening because the LUSH Classical concert venue - the SSE Belfast Arena - is also located here. The concert was a blast. Everyone danced, sang, we had a huge party. On the way home, we managed to catch an excellent taxi driver, with whom we talked a lot about Belfast's past and present. He belonged to the generation that experienced the events of the 90s. He also held the view that the calm is merely apparent, and that the religiously tinted conflicts are actually political and ideological differences.
We exhausted the sightseeing for this two-day trip. Not everything fit in, and we missed out on iconic places like the Wall of Peace and Belfast Castle. But there is a reason to come back, and it's worth coming back. We didn't know much about Belfast, it's not a beautiful city in the classical sense, but its unique atmosphere, the style and temperament of the Irish captivated us. We fell in love with Belfast.
Our trip didn't end with these 2 days. On the 3rd day, we explored the area around Belfast, which you can read about in the next post.
You can read about the 4th day of the trip here: https://www.summester.com/en/belfast-giants-causeway
October 2023
